Kyoto once had two major temples—Tō-ji (East Temple) and Sai-ji (West Temple)—but only Tō-ji remains today. Although its scale is much smaller than in its prime, the temple still houses many National Treasure buildings and sculptures, and as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site, it remains highly worth visiting.
From Kyoto Station, you can take a bus from the station-front terminal and get off at the Tō-ji West Gate stop. Entering from this gate means starting your visit from the rear of the temple complex, which is the route I took.
Upon entering, the first building you’ll see is the Daishidō (Hall of Kōbō Daishi), a National Treasure said to be the residence of Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) himself. After studying Esoteric Buddhism in Tang China, Kūkai returned to Japan and synthesized Buddhist doctrines and texts, greatly advancing the religion’s development in Japan. Tō-ji was granted to him by the emperor and officially recognized as his temple, making it a reflection of Kūkai’s personal interpretation and vision of Buddhism.
Leaving the Daishidō and stepping into the main temple grounds, you’ll first see the Shakudō on the left, now used for sutra offerings and collecting temple stamps. To the right are the ticket booth and souvenir shop, followed by the entrance gate. Inside, the left path leads through a garden to the Five-Story Pagoda (a National Treasure), while the right path takes you past the Lecture Hall (Important Cultural Property) and the Kondō (Main Hall, also a National Treasure).
These buildings preserve invaluable Buddhist art. The Lecture Hall houses a unique three-dimensional mandala composed of 21 statues. The central group features the Five Wisdom Buddhas (representing the Dharma Body), flanked by the Five Great Bodhisattvas (Manifestation Body) on the right and the Five Wisdom Kings (Transformation Body) on the left, with Brahma and guardian deities surrounding them. The visual impact upon entering is truly awe-inspiring.
Further ahead is the Kondō, whose massive structure and dignified exterior convey deep historical weight. Inside, it enshrines Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha) flanked by the Sunlight and Moonlight Bodhisattvas. Though these three statues are classified as Important Cultural Properties rather than National Treasures, they are no less impressive and worthy of admiration.
The most iconic structure of Tō-ji is its Five-Story Pagoda—the tallest wooden pagoda in Japan. Its simple yet majestic form exudes classical elegance and quiet strength. I visited during cherry blossom season, and the combination of blossoms and pagoda was breathtaking.
If you have time to spare, Tō-ji is especially beautiful during cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons, when the temple buildings and pagoda are illuminated at night—a sight said to be well worth experiencing.
京都曾有東西兩寺,現在只有東寺尚存,規模比最盛時小了很多,但是境內存有許多國寶建築、雕塑,加上又名列世界文化遺產,所以可看性仍舊極高。
從京都車站的站前巴士站搭車即可在東寺西門前站下車前往,但從此門進入的話會是從寺院尾端向前參觀;我走的路線即是如此。
一進入會先看到國寶的大師堂,據說是弘法大師空海曾經居住的殿宇。空海從唐朝習得密教佛法歸日,並彙整了日本的佛教思想及經典,讓佛教在日本更加顯揚。東寺因此被天皇賜予空海,並被敕封弘法大師。因此,東寺可說是依照空海根據自身對佛法的釋義及意願改進而成。
離開大師堂,跨出圍牆進入東寺院內,可先看到左方的食堂,目前是納經所及授予御朱印的地方。往右則是售票處、紀念品賣店,然後穿過驗票處進入。院內左方是一路貫穿至前,直通五重塔(國寶)的庭園;右邊則依序看到講堂(重文)及金堂(國寶)。這些建築內保存了無上的佛教藝術遺產,非常值得一看並頂禮。講堂內是21尊佛像組成的立體曼荼羅,這是世界獨一無二的曼荼羅排列方式。中央分成三組群像,分別是中央的五智如來(自性輪身)、右方的五大金剛菩薩(正法輪身)、左方的五大明王(教令輪身),加上四周的梵天、護法神,第一眼映入眼簾時的確令人震撼。
再往前的國寶金堂,建築外觀即能感受歷史的厚重,建築形制也龐大壯觀,內部供奉的是藥師如來跟左右脅侍的日、月光菩薩,雖然三尊只為重要文化財,但依然無損欣賞的樂趣及對藝術的景仰感受。
東寺最顯眼的建築則是目前日本全國最高的五重塔。整體為木造,巨大的塔身樸實厚重,古風耽美、況味十足。加上遊覽的時候為櫻花季,花與塔的搭配更是美得令人目不轉睛。
如果願意安排給東寺更多時間,櫻花及楓葉季時,東寺夜晚都會打燈照亮五重塔及寺內建築,據說頗值得一看。
