Haguroyama Five-Story Pagoda

The Haguroyama Five-Story Pagoda stands as one of Japan's most sacred wooden structures, nestled within an ancient cedar forest on Mount Haguro in Yamagata Prefecture. Originally constructed between 931 and 938, the pagoda was rebuilt in 1372 and restored in 1608. Standing 29 meters tall and constructed entirely from cedarwood, the structure was designated as a National Treasure in 1966. The pagoda represents a rare example of traditional Japanese architecture, built without the use of metal nails and featuring roofs constructed in the ancient kokerabuki style using overlapping thin cedar planks.

Mount Haguro forms part of the Dewa Sanzan, three sacred mountains that have been central to Shugendo mountain worship since ancient times. The original pagoda is believed to have been built by order of Taira no Masakado, a warrior who led a rebellion against the emperor. During the Meiji era's forced separation of Buddhism and Shintoism in the 1870s, most Buddhist structures on Mount Haguro were destroyed, but the pagoda survived by being repurposed as an auxiliary shrine. It now enshrines Okuninushi no Mikoto, the Shinto deity of nation building, agriculture, commerce, and medicine.

Visitors approach the pagoda through a mystical forest of 600-year-old cedar trees, which has been awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide. The walk from the entrance takes approximately 10 to 15 minutes along a stone path that crosses the vermillion Shinkyo Bridge. Standing beside the pagoda is the Jiji-sugi or "Grandpa Cedar," an ancient tree over 1,000 years old with a circumference of 10 meters. The forest setting creates an atmosphere that many describe as deeply spiritual and serene. For those continuing to the summit, the full trail consists of 2,446 stone steps winding through the cedar forest, taking approximately one hour to complete.

The pagoda is accessible year-round and admission is free. Shonai Kotsu operates almost hourly buses from JR Tsuruoka Station to the Haguro Zuishinmon bus stop at the mountain's base, taking 40 minutes and costing 840 yen one way. Buses also run directly to the summit for those who prefer to skip the climb. By car, the site is located 30 minutes from Shonai-Asahi Interchange on the Yamagata Expressway, with parking available near the entrance. Winter visitors should note that conditions can be icy and appropriate footwear is essential for safe navigation of the stone steps.