Hongu (本宮), Wakayama
Hongu is one of the most spiritually significant and profoundly atmospheric destinations in all of Japan, located deep in the mountain interior of the Kii Peninsula in Tanabe City in Wakayama Prefecture. It is the sacred heart of the Kumano pilgrimage tradition, home to the most important of the three great Kumano Sanzan shrines, and a place of such extraordinary spiritual power and natural beauty that it has drawn pilgrims, emperors, and spiritual seekers from across Japan for over 1,000 years.
The name Hongu means "main shrine", reflecting its position as the principal and most sacred of the three Kumano grand shrines that together constitute the Kumano Sanzan, one of the most important Shinto religious complexes in Japan. The three shrines, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, are collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range inscription.
Kumano Hongu Taisha is the most important and spiritually authoritative of the three Kumano shrines, dedicated to Ketsu Miko no Kami, a powerful deity associated with the forces of nature, purification, and the afterlife. The current shrine buildings, beautifully maintained in the dark timber and cypress bark roofing style of traditional Kumano shrine architecture, sit on an elevated wooded hill above the Kumano River confluence in a position of considerable natural drama and spiritual gravitas.
The original site of Kumano Hongu Taisha was located at the Oyunohara sandbar at the confluence of the Kumano, Otonashi, and Iwata rivers, where the shrine stood for centuries until catastrophic flooding in 1889 destroyed much of the original complex and forced the relocation of the surviving shrine buildings to the current elevated site. The Oyunohara original site, now marked by the largest torii gate in Japan, remains one of the most sacred and atmospheric places in the entire Kumano region.
The Oyunohara torii, standing at an extraordinary 33.9 meters in height with a crossbeam spanning 42 meters, is the largest torii gate in Japan and one of the most dramatic and immediately impressive sacred structures in the country. The enormous gate rises from the open river sandbar, visible from considerable distances across the surrounding mountain landscape, and marks the original sacred ground of one of Japan's most ancient and important religious sites.
The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, designated alongside the Santiago de Compostela routes in Spain as a UNESCO World Heritage dual listing recognizing their shared significance as great pilgrimage traditions of the world, converge at Hongu from multiple directions. The Nakahechi, Kohechi, Ohechi, and Iseji routes all lead to Kumano Hongu Taisha as their primary destination, and the paths connecting to the shrine pass through some of the most beautiful and atmospherically powerful mountain forest environments in the Kii Peninsula.
The Nakahechi route, the most historically important and widely walked section of the Kumano Kodo, approaches Hongu from Tanabe on the Kii coast through the forested mountain interior of the peninsula. The route passes through ancient cedar forest, across mountain passes, and through historic post town settlements in a journey of approximately 70 kilometers that takes most walkers 3 to 5 days of sustained hiking through some of the most profoundly beautiful and spiritually charged mountain landscape in Japan.
The tradition of kumano pilgrimage reached its peak during the Heian and Kamakura periods when the retired Japanese emperors made repeated pilgrimages to the Kumano shrines in journeys of extraordinary religious devotion and political significance. The retired emperors' processions to Kumano, some of which involved parties of hundreds of aristocrats and attendants traversing the mountain roads, became so frequent that the route was popularly called "the procession of ants" (ari no kumano mode).
The Kumano River (Kumano-gawa) flowing past Hongu is one of the most important and scenically magnificent rivers in the Kii Peninsula, its clear and powerful current flowing from the mountain interior to the Pacific coast at Shingu. The river is the site of the extraordinary Dorokyo Gorge, a narrow canyon of dramatic rock formations accessible by boat from Shingu in a journey upstream through some of the most spectacular river gorge scenery in western Japan.
The Kumano Hongu Heritage Center near the shrine provides comprehensive information and exhibits documenting the extraordinary history, natural environment, and pilgrimage culture of the Kumano region. The center serves as an essential orientation resource for visitors beginning the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage walks and provides important context for understanding the deep spiritual and cultural significance of the Hongu shrine and the broader Kumano sacred landscape.
The Wataze Onsen hot spring flowing directly from the Kumano River sandbar near Hongu is one of the most extraordinary and unusual bathing experiences in Japan, with natural hot spring water emerging from the riverbed itself and mixing with the cooler river water in a series of natural pools that can only be accessed during periods of lower river flow. The experience of bathing in a natural riverside hot spring within sight of one of Japan's most sacred shrine sites is one of the most memorable and spiritually resonant natural bathing experiences available in Wakayama Prefecture.
Hongu is accessible from Shingu on the JR Kisei Main Line by bus in approximately 1 hour 20 minutes, and from Tanabe by bus in approximately 2 hours through the mountain roads of the Kii interior. From Osaka, the journey by bus via the Meishin Expressway takes approximately 3 hours 30 minutes on the direct Meiko Bus service, making Hongu accessible as an overnight destination from the Kansai cities for visitors seeking the extraordinary spiritual and natural heritage of the Kumano mountain interior.
