Izushi (出石), Hyogo
Izushi is one of the most beautifully preserved and atmospherically intact castle towns in western Japan, located in the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture in the Tajima region approximately 20 kilometers inland from the Sea of Japan coast. It is a small town of extraordinary historical character and culinary fame that rewards visitors with a genuinely immersive experience of Edo-period merchant and samurai culture.
The town developed as the castle town of the Izushi Domain during the Edo period, when the Sengoku Okabe clan established their seat of power here and built the network of samurai residences, merchant streets, and civic institutions that still define the character of the old town today. The remarkable degree to which this historic fabric has survived makes Izushi one of the most complete surviving examples of a provincial castle town in the Kansai and San'in region.
The centerpiece of the town is Izushi Castle (Izushi-jo), whose stone foundations and turrets occupy a low hill at the northern edge of the old town. The main keep no longer stands, but the surviving stone walls, yagura (corner turrets), and the beautifully maintained Senkoji castle grounds create a powerful impression of the castle's former scale and elegance.
The approach to the castle ruins passes through the Eirakukan, a beautifully preserved Meiji-era kabuki theater completed in 1901 and one of the oldest surviving regional theater buildings in Japan. The theater continues to host kabuki and traditional performance events and its carefully maintained interior, with original wooden seating and stage machinery, is one of the most evocative theatrical spaces in the Kansai region.
The old town streets spreading south from the castle hill form one of the most complete and unspoiled shitamachi streetscapes in western Honshu. Stone-paved lanes lined with whitewashed kura warehouses, traditional merchant townhouses, small shrines, and family-run shops create a walking environment of remarkable historical authenticity and visual beauty.
The Izushi Shrine (Izushi Jinja), sitting within the castle precinct, is one of the most important and historically significant shrines in the Tajima region. The shrine's elegant architecture, its wooded precinct, and its long association with the ruling clans of the domain give it a weight and presence that anchors the entire historic district with spiritual and cultural authority.
Izushi is perhaps most famous across Japan for its celebrated culinary specialty, Izushi soba, thin buckwheat noodles served cold on small lacquerware dishes called sara soba. The tradition of eating multiple small servings of noodles stacked in a series of individual dishes originated in Izushi and has become the defining food experience of the town, with dozens of soba restaurants concentrated along the historic streets.
The origin of Izushi soba dates to the early 18th century, when the lord of the Izushi Domain, Sengoku Yorimichi, invited a master soba craftsman from Shinshu (present-day Nagano Prefecture) to the town. The cool mountain waters and high-quality local buckwheat of the Tajima region proved ideal for soba production, and the craft has been practiced and refined in the town for over 300 years.
The custom of sara soba involves ordering a set number of small dishes, typically five as a standard serving, with guests encouraged to keep ordering additional dishes until satisfied. The competitive tradition of seeing how many dishes one can consume in a single sitting is taken with cheerful seriousness by dedicated soba enthusiasts, and some visitors manage extraordinary numbers.
The old town also contains an interesting concentration of small museums and cultural facilities reflecting the diverse heritage of the Izushi Domain. The Izushi History Museum, the Tajima Pottery Museum, and several private collections documenting the arts and crafts of the region are distributed throughout the historic streets and provide substantial depth for visitors with a serious interest in regional history.
The surrounding Tajima countryside visible from the edges of the old town is gently beautiful, with rice fields, forested hills, and the clear waters of the Izushi River creating a pastoral landscape that enhances the sense of having arrived somewhere genuinely removed from modern urban Japan. The town is particularly beautiful in cherry blossom season when the castle grounds and riverside paths bloom.
Izushi is most conveniently accessed by car or bus from Kinosaki Onsen Station or Toyooka Station on the JR San'in Main Line, with journey times of approximately 30 to 40 minutes by road. Direct bus services also connect from Toyooka city center to the old town. The relative difficulty of direct rail access has helped preserve the town's quiet and unhurried character.
