It's been 20 years since I last visited here. A 30-minute bus ride from Kitahiroshima Station, the Chitosegawa Bridge, Kanehiro, and Naganuma Town Hall passing by the window, makes me feel a little sentimental. The number of people boarding the bus at the starting point in front of Kitahiroshima Station gradually dwindled, and by the time we approached our final stop, Naganuma Onsen, the bus was fully booked. I arrived at 2 p.m. on December 29, 2025. Despite it being the end of the year, the parking lot was sparsely populated, and the only people emitting smoke were me and the bus.
But once I passed through the automatic doors, the view changed 180 degrees. A pale pink carpet lay beneath my feet, the joyous voices of children could be heard in the distance, and the friendly receptionist was very welcoming. I paid the 700 yen day-use bathing fee. I walked down the corridor behind the reception desk and soon came to a large resting area. The resting areas on both sides of the central corridor were elevated, with heated floors. There's a TV on each side, a manga section, a convenience store, and rows of vending machines, plus a crane game in the back. People fill their stomachs with snacks in the round table area, while others sleep soundly, lying on their backs along the long tables. (I followed their lead and took a nap while waiting for the bus home.)
As I walk further and further down the corridor, I finally see the signs for men's and women's at the end. The changing room beyond the noren curtain is more spacious than I'd expected. There don't seem to be many lockers, but I'm sure I don't need any more. After carefully washing away my year's worth of fatigue in the shower, I head for the large bath. The temperature is just under 42°C, and as I immerse myself up to my shoulders, goosebumps suddenly appear all over my body. Once I get used to the temperature, I relax my body and my arms and legs naturally open. The large bath and the small number of customers mean I don't have to worry about others, which helps me relax as well. In Tokyo, I often sit cross-legged, but here, there's no need. It was the polar opposite of the phrase "sweet potato washing." Afterwards, I thoroughly enjoyed the open-air bath, sauna, and cold bath. Even if it was just for a moment, I was able to forget about work and reminisce about my late grandparents. I'm not sure when I'll be back in Hokkaido, but I've decided to add Naganuma Onsen to my next itinerary.
For those who love hot springs but lament that in recent years, wherever they go it's always crowded with tourists and families, this is the place for you.
The facilities are old but clean, and although the lockers are a little worn out, the free-flowing sodium salt spring water keeps you warm and cozy for a long time.
The rest room is also spacious and quiet.
The shop has a good selection of products.
Another plus is that it's only about 40 minutes from Sapporo.
Frequently Asked Questions
Naganuma Onsen has sodium chloride spring water maintained at 40-42 degrees Celsius. The water is used for treating muscle fatigue, joint pain, and circulation issues.
Gender-separated indoor baths with basic changing rooms and bathing areas. English signage is limited.
Primarily a local community facility with minimal tourist infrastructure and limited English support. Suitable for travelers seeking an authentic, budget-friendly hot spring experience.
The onsen operates year-round with no seasonal restrictions. Winter months (December-February) offer the traditional experience of bathing in hot springs during Hokkaido's cold season, while summer provides comfortable weather for exploring the surrounding agricultural area.
Like many community-oriented onsen facilities in Japan, Naganuma Onsen may restrict entry to visitors with tattoos. Check policies with staff before bathing, as rules can vary by facility and tattoo size.
