両国、東京
Ryogoku is Tokyo's sumo district, a working-class neighborhood in Sumida Ward on the eastern bank of the Sumida River that has been the center of professional sumo in Japan for over two centuries. It is one of the most culturally specific neighborhoods in Tokyo and one of the most rewarding for visitors who know what they are coming for.
The name Ryogoku (両国) means "two provinces," a reference to the fact that the Sumida River here once marked the border between the old provinces of Musashi and Shimosa. The neighborhood developed as a busy commercial and entertainment district during the Edo period, and sumo tournaments have been held here in various venues since the eighteenth century.
Today Ryogoku is quieter and more residential than its historical profile suggests, but it retains a distinct identity built entirely around sumo culture. Walking the streets, you will regularly encounter rikishi (sumo wrestlers) in traditional dress moving between their stables and the Ryogoku Kokugikan arena, which is one of the more memorable casual sightings Tokyo offers.
What Life in Ryogoku Looks Like
Ryogoku is a genuinely local neighborhood with very little of the tourist infrastructure that surrounds most major Tokyo attractions. Outside of tournament periods the streets are quiet, the restaurants are straightforward and affordable, and the pace reflects a working district rather than a visitor destination.
The presence of multiple sumo stables in the neighborhood means that early morning training sessions called "keiko" are sometimes open to outside observers through advance arrangement. Watching rikishi train in a traditional wooden stable before the rest of the city wakes up is one of the most authentic cultural experiences available in Tokyo.
The Edo-Tokyo Museum, one of the most significant history museums in the city, was undergoing renovation at time of writing. When it reopens, it will again be one of the major reasons to visit Ryogoku beyond sumo.
How to Get to Ryogoku
Ryogoku Station is served by the JR Sobu Line and the Toei Oedo Line. The JR Sobu Line from Akihabara takes about five minutes and is the fastest connection from central Tokyo. Asakusa is about 15 minutes on foot across the Sumida River or a short ride on the Toei Oedo Line.