Yamatsumi Shrine practices wolf worship, which is rare in Japan. A white wolf statue stands at the entrance instead of traditional guardian dogs. The main hall ceiling features 242 paintings of wolves that were restored in 2015 after a fire destroyed the original shrine in April 2013. The shrine was founded in 1051 based on a legend where a white wolf helped samurai Minamoto no Yoriyoshi capture a bandit.
Private transportation is required as no public buses serve the shrine. Access is via Route 115 from the Tohoku Chuo Expressway at Reizan-Iitate IC. Free parking and toilet facilities are available on-site.
The priest typically attends only on weekends and holidays, so goshuin stamps are not always available. A vending machine dispenses protective amulets and fortunes for 50 to 100 yen when the priest is absent.
Fire destroyed the original shrine and its century-old wolf paintings in April 2013. The shrine was rebuilt in 2015 with modern amenities including automatic doors and climate control. Graduate students from Tokyo University of the Arts restored the 242 wolf paintings over 10 months using pre-fire photographs.
A hiking trail leads from the rebuilt shrine to the original main hall higher on Mount Toratori. The surrounding forest has abundant wildlife including bears and wild boars. Proper hiking gear is necessary due to steep terrain.
A little way up the mountain trail from the entrance to the main shrine, you'll find a wolf bench, which was exhibited at the Osaka-Kansai Expo.
From here, it's about a 45-minute walk along the mountain trail to reach the main shrine, which sits near the summit.
If you go around the rocky area next to the main shrine, you'll reach a large rock with a great view.
🐺
Yamatsumi Shrine, located in Yasaka, finally held its festival the other day.
Just as things were beginning to settle down after overcoming the earthquake and nuclear accident,
the shrine's old main building burned down,
a pity.
Everyone worked together to rebuild the new main building,
and a brand-new main hall is being rebuilt on the site of the old one.
It's so clean and beautiful, not just from the outside,
but the automatic entrance swings open wide.
There's a vending machine for amulets to the right, and on the left is a gift shop selling all kinds of talismans and amulets.
The stone wolf statue in the grounds, which survived the fire, has a scorched back,
and it feels like you want to rub it with your palm.
The temperature difference between summer and winter is extreme here, so the worship hall is fully air-conditioned and heated.
It would be nice to have at least a shop in front of the gate.
If you had to choose between Hamadori and Nakadori, I'd say Hamadori.
Exit the Tohoku Chuo Expressway at Reizen-Iitate IC and take Route 115 west.
Head south on Prefectural Route (31) toward Minamisoma and Iitate.
Eventually, a fork in the road will lead you to the right, where you'll see the stone pillar of Yamatsumi Shrine. Don't miss it, and enter the village on the old road side.
Soon, you'll see another vertical sign for Yamatsumi Shrine on the right.
Turn right at this point,
and when you see the cowshed on your right, you'll have arrived.
There are no buses, so
you'll have to drive, walk, or taxi.
It's located roughly equidistant from Fukushima Station on the Tohoku Main Line and Soma Station on the Joban Line, about halfway between them.
Although Soma Station is a little closer,
it takes half a day to walk there.
The amount of snow isn't that much, but if you're not used to frozen roads or can't do salt carmente, it's best to avoid it during the harsh winter.
Even during peak season, you'll be walking through forests and rice fields, so you might encounter hornets, bears, wild wolves, and wild boars. The Yamatsumi Shrine you're heading for is a village shrine; the original shrine is a small shrine on Mount Toratori. You'll need proper equipment to get there.
I came back after a long time since the earthquake disaster! There were surprisingly many people there, and although there is no outdoor stall, it is a wonderful shrine. Charms and other items can be purchased from vending machines.
This shrine enshrines wolves. The building is relatively new. There is a path behind the main hall that leads to the inner shrine, but unfortunately it was raining, so I gave up this time. I'd like to return next time, bringing a bear bell and other things with me.
There is a ceiling painting of a wolf in the main hall, but there was no one there, so I couldn't just go inside, and unfortunately, I just viewed it from outside.
[A Journey to Collect Wolf Amulets] While wolf worship remains strong throughout the Kanto region, particularly around Chichibu and Okutama, it also persists in the Tohoku region.
At Yamatsumi Shrine, in addition to wolf statues and wolf amulets, the wolf ceiling painting is a rare and valuable artifact likely found nowhere else.
★The 2015 Shrine Fire and Modern Facilities After Reconstruction★
The shrine building was destroyed by fire in 2015. Upon reconstruction, it was reborn as a shrine with modern facilities such as automatic doors and amulet vending machines. The air conditioning worked well, making it comfortable even in the middle of summer. The wolf ceiling painting was also repainted. Being a recent painting, the colors are very vibrant.
★The Origin of Toratori-san (Tiger-Capture Mountain)★
Approximately 900 years ago, during the Heian period, there was a villain named Tachibana Sumitora, said to have been born and raised in the village of Mano. Sumitora formed a gang and repeatedly raided neighboring villages, plundering and robbing them.
At that time, Lord Minamoto no Yoriyoshi, who was in the region, heard of their wicked deeds and ordered his men to subdue Sumitora.
Although Sumitora was defeated in the Battle of Reizan, he continued to hide in the mountains, greatly troubled Lord Yoriyoshi with his elusive guerrilla tactics.
"If you wish to capture Sumitora, follow the footprints of the white wolf."
With this divine message from the mountain god, Yoriyoshi finally captured and subdued the hiding Sumitora.
Because Sumitora was captured, the mountain came to be called Toratori-san (Tiger-Capture Mountain), and the white wolf came to be worshipped as a messenger of the gods.
