Nagano

Nagano is a temple city in the mountains of central Honshu, capital of the prefecture that hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics. The city grew up around a single great temple, and it remains the gateway to some of Japan's best snow country and alpine scenery.

Zenko-ji, founded in the seventh century, anchors the main street; pilgrims descend into its pitch-dark corridor to touch a hidden key said to grant salvation, and morning services welcome anyone awake early enough. An easy bus ride away, the snow monkeys of Jigokudani soak in their own hot spring through winter.

Order the local soba at least once; buckwheat thrives in these mountains. The shinkansen links Nagano directly with Tokyo, and buses continue to Hakuba's ski valley and the old post towns. Winter is peak season, but summer hiking has its own strong following.