Yamaguchi

Yamaguchi is the westernmost prefecture of Honshu, wrapping the island's tip between the Sea of Japan and the Seto Inland Sea. It is quietly historic: its samurai plotted the Meiji Restoration, and its landmarks punch far above their fame with visitors from abroad still scarce.

The five wooden arches of Kintaikyo Bridge leap the river at Iwakuni, and the 123 red torii of Motonosumi Shrine cascade down a cliff toward the Sea of Japan. Beneath the Akiyoshidai limestone plateau, the Akiyoshido cave opens halls the size of stations, and Hagi keeps its samurai lanes and celebrated pottery kilns.

In Shimonoseki, licensed chefs serve fugu, the pufferfish the port made famous, at its best in winter season. The shinkansen crosses the prefecture with stops at Shin-Yamaguchi and Shin-Shimonoseki, though a car unlocks the coastal shrines. Spring softens the plateau grasslands; autumn suits Hagi's lanes.