Enzoji Temple, Yanaizu

Fukuman Kokuzo Enzoji Temple stands in the town of Yanaizu in Fukushima Prefecture's Aizu region with a history extending 1,200 years back to its founding in 807. The temple was established by Tokuichi Daishi, a noted priest from the Aizu region, and enshrines a statue of Kokuzo Bosatsu (the Bodhisattva of wisdom) said to have been carved by Kobo Daishi. According to legend, Kobo Daishi received a sacred tree from a Tang high priest and after returning to Japan, split it into three pieces and threw them into the ocean, where they floated to Ibaraki, Chiba, and Yanaizu. The temple is considered one of the three main Kokuzo Bosatsu temples in Japan, alongside temples in Ibaraki and Chiba prefectures.

The main hall rises dramatically above a huge crag, offering commanding views of the Tadami River flowing through the town below. Following a great earthquake in 1611 that destroyed the original main hall, the current structure was rebuilt in 1617 on its present cliff-top location. The temple is famous as the birthplace of akabeko, the iconic red cow figurine that has become a beloved folk craft of the Aizu region. Legend recounts how red cows assisted in the temple's reconstruction, leading to the creation of commemorative cow statues.

Visitors can explore the temple grounds and view the bronze cow statue, where many rub specific body parts seeking healing according to local tradition. The temple complex includes a treasure house and monuments inscribed with poems and haiku from notable poets. The location offers spectacular seasonal views, with cherry blossoms in spring, mist over the river in summer, vibrant red maples in autumn, and snow in winter. Photography inside the temple buildings is strictly prohibited, and visitors are reminded that this is an active place of worship requiring respectful behavior.

The temple can be reached via a ten-minute walk from Aizu-Yanaizu Station. From Aizu-Wakamatsu, the JR Tadami Line connects to Aizu-Yanaizu Station in approximately one hour, with trains running infrequently at a cost of 680 yen one way. Admission to the temple grounds costs 300 yen for adults and 100 yen for children. The temple town of Yanaizu also offers local specialties including awa-manju, a regional pastry made with a distinctive cornmeal-like texture and filled with bean paste.