My child lives in Minamisoma City, so this was my first time going. I heard there was a ladder-riding offering, so I went to see it at 8am. I'd seen it on TV before, but it was my first time seeing it in front of me, and it was very moving and tense. It's wonderful to see young people carrying on traditional culture. Keep up the great work!
My relatives were transferred from Kansai to Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture, and I regularly visit Haramachi for sightseeing.
I learned that the Soma Nomaoi, a nationally designated Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property, takes place here. It's one of the three Myoken shrines in Soma—Soma Odaka Shrine, Soma Ota Shrine, and Soma Nakamura Shrine—and the Soma Nomaoi deity takes off from here.
I was eager to visit, and I finally got to visit during the New Year holidays. 😉✌️
Soma Odaka Shrine was founded in 1323 (Genkyo 3) by Lord Soma Magogoro Shigetane, who was transferred from Shimousa Province to this area. It was built within Odaka Castle to enshrine Myoken, the deity worshipped as the guardian deity. Even after the castle was abandoned in 1611 (Keicho 16), it continued to be enshrined as Myokensha. Following the separation of Shinto and Buddhism after the Meiji Restoration, it was renamed Odaka Shrine.
In addition to being a Fukushima Prefecture designated historic site, the temple is also home to the Edo period "Soma Nomaoi Plaque," a Fukushima Prefecture designated tangible folk cultural property.
On the final day of the Soma Nomaoi, the most important Shinto ritual, "Nomakake," is also held on the temple grounds.
Approximately 120 Somei Yoshino, weeping, and double-flowered cherry trees are planted on the temple grounds, making it a well-known cherry blossom spot.
I'd love to visit again during cherry blossom viewing season and the Nomaoi event. 😁
The Soma Nomaoi is a 1,000-year-old samurai festival featuring horseback riding competitions, mock cavalry battles, and traditional ceremonies. It takes place annually in late July over three days, with Soma Odaka Shrine serving as one of three main venues. Hundreds of riders dressed in authentic samurai armor participate in events including horse races, flag capture competitions called Kacchu-keiba, and the dramatic Shinki Sodatsusen where mounted warriors compete to catch sacred flags launched into the air.
From Tokyo, take the JR Joban Line northbound to Odaka Station, which requires approximately 3 to 4 hours depending on train connections. From Sendai, the journey south on the same line takes about 1.5 hours. The shrine is within walking distance from Odaka Station. Visitors driving can access the shrine via National Route 6, with parking available near the grounds.
No, Soma Odaka Shrine is free to enter year-round. Visitors can explore the shrine grounds, pray at the main hall, and experience the traditional Shinto atmosphere without any admission charge. However, if attending special events or the Soma Nomaoi festival, there may be separate fees for designated viewing areas or grandstand seating.
The shrine enshrines Myoken Boson, a Buddhist deity associated with the North Star and Polar constellations. Myoken Boson served as the guardian deity of the Soma clan who ruled the region during feudal times. This reflects the historical syncretism between Shinto and Buddhism in Japan, where Buddhist deities were often worshipped at Shinto shrines before the Meiji period separation of the two religions.
Soma Odaka Shrine is located in an area significantly impacted by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake, tsunami, and Fukushima nuclear disaster. The Odaka district was within the evacuation zone, and many residents were displaced for years. The shrine has since become a symbol of cultural preservation and community recovery, with the continuation of the Soma Nomaoi festival representing the region's resilience and determination to maintain its centuries-old traditions despite tremendous hardship.
