Yakushima Goshinzan

We hiked through Shiratani both ways, its our second time doing this enormous day hike to see the majestic giant Jomon Sugi. I'd do it every year if I could! It's hard to put in words the palpable energy of this primordial forest, especially as you start getting closer to the great cedars and see giants one by one, each having a distinct personality.

We set off from the Arakawa trailhead at 7:00 AM. The one-way distance is approximately 11 kilometers, and the round trip is approximately 22 kilometers. Most of the trail follows the old railway tracks used to transport timber, passing through dense cedar forests and moss-covered streams. Hikers will pass other equally ancient Yakusugi, such as the Wilson stump, whose trunk has been hollowed out but still survives, and the huge and majestic Daiosugi. Upon reaching the final stop, in order to protect this fragile ancient tree, visitors can only admire its splendor from a viewing platform a safe distance away. Although close contact is not possible, the awe-inspiring feeling of standing before this thousand-year-old giant tree is enough to dispel all fatigue. It took us about 9 hours to complete the journey.

The trail to Jomon Sugi can be a bit challenging in some parts of the climb, but once you're standing in front of this gigantic cedar, it's well worth the effort !

Jomon sugi is just a big tree, you cannot even touch it. There are viewing decks 50meters away from the tree. What made the 10hour trek worth it is the breathtaking sceneries along the trek. Every rest, I can’t stop saying it’s so beautiful here.. Straight out of the fairytale book. Pictures don’t do justice. The view is so inspiring. I understand why Hayao Miyazaki got inspired by the forest and used it in his works. The trek is easy. There are stairs and paths that are easy to follow. 100m past the Jomon sugi is a small house/ a camping house where people can stay overnight. It’s free. No staff. There is a tent toilet near it. The las bus from the trail entrance is 5:45pm so it’s advisable to get there early.

I started early in the morning (6am) and really couldn't see anything. A flash light is a must if you are leaving before sunrise. The first 4 miles were a breeze walking along the train tracks, but be careful because it's easy to slip off the planks if you aren't paying attention. There are a couple of sketchy little bridges with no rails so if you are afraid of heights prepare yourself for that, but it's a very short distance so not terrible. I made one small detour towards the beginning to check out the river. There is a spot where you can see the water through the trees and a small path that leads down to a relatively calm spot with a large pool. A perfect place to have breakfast if you haven't already. Once you get to the final bathroom (the end of the train tracks) you can break for lunch and refill your water before the real hike begins. Turn around and before you cross back over the last bridge you will see a narrow steep path on the left. That's the way. The next couple miles are steep and challenging. About 15 to 25 minutes into the second part you should reach Wilson's Stump were if you go into it and immediately turn to the left you can crouch down and take a picture of the heart shaped opening at the top. From there it's at least another hour to two hours depending on your pace and physical ability. I'd say it was between 1.5 and 2 miles. (My watch may have been a little off because it said I did 15 miles and I think google said it's 13.3 miles. As you get closer to Jōmon Sugi you will see more wooden walkways and the newer they are the closer you are. There are two observation decks with the southside putting you right in front of Jōmon Sugi. The quietness of the forest and spiritual feeling of that spot is unreal. Well worth the physically demanding hike to get there. It's better to go fast at the beginning and then take your time coming back because as the day progresses you can see more since the sun has finally risen in the sky. Also if you are like me and finish the hike in 8 hours it's good to note that the first bus back to the museum doesn't arrive till 15:00 (3pm) so no need to hurry back. Try and get a bus seat on the left window side for the ride back (opposite the driver) so you can enjoy the breathtaking views of the mountains. I unfortunately say on the wrong side so I was trying to look without looking like I was staring at the guy sleeping next to me. It was an incredible experience and very physically demanding, but if you go at your own place and listen to your body, take breaks and hydrate as necessary anyone can do it. Again I recommended going a little faster at the beginning so you can relax now on the way back as you are coming down.