TripToJapan.com Editorial Team

The best date in Tokyo costs about ¥400. You take the Chuo line to Kichijoji, rent a swan boat on the pond at Inokashira Park, and row badly for thirty minutes while a local legend insists that couples who do this will break up. Everyone does it anyway.
Romantic Tokyo is not the expensive version of Tokyo. The city's best places for couples are parks, river boats, night views, quiet back streets and small restaurants, and most of them are free or close to it. Here is how to build a day or an evening out of them.

Tokyo goes on to the horizon in every direction, and looking at it from above at night is the single most reliable thing you can do here as a couple.

The Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku has two observatories at 202 meters and they are free. On a clear winter evening you can see Mount Fuji from the south tower before sunset. There is often a queue and it moves fast.

Roppongi Hills Mori Tower has the better view of the two paid options, because Tokyo Tower is in it. The Sky Deck on the roof is open-air, which is worth the extra few hundred yen, and the Mori Art Museum on the same ticket stays open until 22:00 on most nights, which makes it one of the few genuinely late cultural things to do in the city.

Tokyo Tower is the sentimental choice, orange and lattice and lit differently by season. Couples come here specifically; there is a small shrine on the main deck and a heart-shaped window in one of the lookouts. Our comparison of Tokyo Tower and the Skytree covers which to pick, and a Tokyo Tower ticket with a subway pass is the efficient way to combine it with a day of moving around.

The Skytree's observation decks sit at the tallest point in the city and the most expensive, at 634 meters, with a glass-floored section on the upper deck. Skytree tickets are worth booking ahead for a specific time slot at sunset.

Ebisu Garden Place is the low-key alternative and the one locals actually use. A European-style plaza with a free 39th-floor observation area, and from November to January a Baccarat chandelier over three meters tall stands in the middle of the square.
We'll build a costed, pre-planned Japan itinerary you can customise to your taste.

Shinjuku Gyoen is 58 hectares of Japanese, French and English garden five minutes from one of the busiest stations on earth. Entry is ¥500, no alcohol is allowed, and that rule is why it stays calm during cherry blossom season when every other park in the city turns into a party.

Hamarikyu Gardens is a former shogunal duck-hunting estate on Tokyo Bay, with a seawater tidal pond that rises and falls and a 300-year-old pine. The teahouse on an island in the middle serves matcha and a sweet for about ¥600, looking out at skyscrapers over the trees.

Ueno Park has the museums, the zoo and Shinobazu Pond, where you can take out a rowboat or a swan pedalo. Our guide to what to do in Ueno Park covers the rest of it.

Inokashira Park in Kichijoji is the one with the swan boats and the superstition, plus the Ghibli Museum at the far end and a street of good bars on the way back to the station. Background on the park's history is on its entry if you want it.

Yoyogi Park is the loose, loud one, with rockabilly dancers at the entrance on Sundays and enough space to lose the crowd. Our guide to Japanese garden design explains what to look for in the formal ones.

Todoroki Valley is the surprise: a one-kilometer wooded ravine inside the city limits, with a stream, a waterfall, a small temple and a teahouse, fifteen minutes from Shibuya. It is the quietest place in Tokyo that is easy to reach, and a walk-through of the valley shows what to expect.

The Sumida River cruise from Asakusa to Hinode Pier takes about 40 minutes and passes under a dozen bridges, each painted a different color. The Himiko and Hotaluna boats were designed by the manga artist Leiji Matsumoto and look like something from a 1970s space opera. Background on the river is on its Wikipedia entry.
Get off at Hamarikyu rather than staying on to the end; the boat docks inside the garden.

Odaiba, on the far side of Tokyo Bay, is where you go for the view back at the city: the Rainbow Bridge lit up, the Statue of Liberty replica, and a seafront promenade that is genuinely quiet after dark. Take the Yurikamome and sit at the front.

Chidorigafuchi, the moat beside the Imperial Palace, rents rowing boats under the cherry trees in spring. It is the single most romantic thirty minutes available in Tokyo and the queue in early April reflects that. Our guide to the Imperial Palace covers the rest of the grounds.

Asakusa's Senso-ji temple is the oldest temple in the city and the busiest, but it is free, open all night, and almost empty at 22:00 with the gate and pagoda lit. Draw an omikuji fortune together; the bad ones get tied to a rack and left behind. The temple's site has the festival calendar.
A rickshaw through the back streets costs from about ¥4,000 for ten minutes and is more fun than it sounds, largely because the pullers are performers.

The Meiji Jingu forest covers 70 hectares of 100,000 donated trees in the middle of the city, planted in the 1920s and now looking entirely natural. The walk in under the torii is the point. Weekend mornings you will often see a wedding procession crossing the courtyard.

Kagurazaka is the old geisha quarter on a hill near Iidabashi, with cobbled alleys, black wooden walls and a French population. It is the best dinner-and-a-walk neighborhood in central Tokyo, and nothing about it is on the standard circuit.

The National Art Center in Roppongi has no permanent collection, which means it changes completely several times a year. The building alone, a rippling glass wall by Kisho Kurokawa with two inverted concrete cones inside, justifies the trip, and the ground floor is free.

Omotesando is a zelkova-lined boulevard of flagship stores by Herzog & de Meuron, SANAA, Toyo Ito and Tadao Ando, which makes it the best free architecture walk in Japan. Turn off into the Ura-Harajuku back streets for coffee.

Takeshita Street runs parallel and is the opposite: 350 meters of crepes, purikura photo booths and teenage fashion. A kawaii food tour of Harajuku makes sense of it, and a two-hour Harajuku food walk covers the eating end.
The purikura booths are worth doing. They will make your eyes enormous and there is no way to turn it off.
Tokyo has more restaurants than any city on earth, and the ones that work for a couple are rarely the expensive ones.
Counter dining is the format to look for. Eight to twelve seats, the chef in front of you, one menu. Sushi, tempura, yakitori and kaiseki all work this way, and the shared attention makes it a better evening than a table for two in a large room. Lunch at a counter costs a third of dinner.
Yokocho alleys are the opposite and just as good: Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai in Shinjuku, Ebisu Yokocho, Nonbei Yokocho under the tracks in Shibuya. Tiny bars seating six or eight, where you will end up talking to whoever is next to you. Most charge a small seating fee.
Department store basements, the depachika, are the cheap romantic option nobody suggests. Buy a spread of prepared food and take it to a park or a riverbank. Isetan Shinjuku and Takashimaya are the best.
Kissaten, the old-fashioned coffee houses, are where to go in the afternoon: dark wood, siphon coffee, thick toast and no music above a murmur. There are hundreds and almost all of them are better than the chains.
Winter illuminations run from early November to mid-February and are a genuinely major thing here rather than a Christmas afterthought. Marunouchi's avenue of lit zelkova trees, Roppongi's Keyakizaka with Tokyo Tower framed at the end, Shibuya's Blue Cave, and Ebisu Garden Place with its Baccarat chandelier.
Christmas Eve in Japan is a couples' night, not a family one, closer to Valentine's Day elsewhere. Restaurants book out weeks ahead and hotels sell packages. If you are here on December 24, reserve early or accept that you will be eating convenience-store fried chicken, which is also a tradition.
Summer fireworks run through July and August, with the Sumida River festival in late July drawing around a million people. Wear a yukata, which you can rent for the day, and arrive hours early or watch from a restaurant with a view.



