Many shops were closed, possibly due to the low number of tourists. The area has many small streets and alleys, with generally affordable prices. Most places are local shops. Some stores accept cash only, while others accept cards, so it’s best to check before using the service. The atmosphere is quiet and peaceful, and you can hear the sound of water flowing from the stream. There is plenty of parking, and it’s a nice area to walk around and explore.
This is a beautiful castle town with a nostalgic and deeply atmospheric feel.
It's famous for being used as a filming location for numerous movies and dramas, including the NHK serial drama "Hanbun, Aoi." Many old houses from a bygone era have been carefully preserved, and simply walking around makes you feel like you've traveled back in time.
As you stroll through the town, you'll hear historical stories and anecdotes about the famous "Iwamura Castle Lady." Knowing the deep and poignant historical background makes the scenery of this town even more moving.
The charming shops, including the original local Japanese confectionery shops, goheimochi (rice cake) shops, and souvenir shops operating in the picturesque buildings, make this the perfect place to quietly enjoy a historical stroll and some local food.
Iwamura Castle Town Craft Fair (Event Rating: ★★★★★)
I visited the Iwamura Castle Town Craft Fair for the first time!
In stark contrast to its usual tranquil atmosphere, the castle town was bustling with activity, creating a wonderful event where historic streetscapes blended seamlessly with modern craftworks.
The participating shops were scattered throughout the castle town, in various houses and spaces, so a map in the pamphlet was essential to find your desired booth (wandering around like a treasure hunt was also fun). There were stalls in a variety of genres, including woodworking, pottery, leather goods, and accessories, offering plenty to see.
While visiting the booths, you could also easily stop by the long-established shops that were originally part of the castle town, allowing you to enjoy both the event and exploring the town at the same time. I would definitely like to visit again next time.
1. About the Tragic Female Castle Lord, "Otsuya-no-kata"
The woman known as the female castle lord was Oda Nobunaga's aunt (Otsuya-no-kata).
Because her husband (Toyama Kagetō), the lord of Iwamura Castle, died of illness, Nobunaga installed his young son (Gobōmaru) as the next lord. However, because he was still a child, his aunt, Lady Otsuya, effectively managed the castle as the female lord and was deeply loved by the people.
2. The Attack of Takeda's Fierce General, Akiyama Nobutomo, and the Demand for Surrender
Then, the Takeda army, led by the fierce general Akiyama Nobutomo (Torashige), acting on the orders of Takeda Shingen, attacked.
Lady Otsuya defended the castle for about three months, desperately trying to save it. However, at the time, Nobunaga was preoccupied with other battles (against the Asai and Asakura clans, and Ishiyama Honganji, etc.) and was unable to send troops to relieve Iwamura Castle.
Realizing that she was isolated and without support, and that further siege would only result in deaths from starvation, Lady Otsuya was presented with a surprising offer (a peace proposal) rather than a direct assault.
3. The Decision to Marry (To Protect Her People)
The condition was that if Otsuya-no-kata became Akiyama Nobutomo's wife (principal wife) and adopted Oda's Gobomaru, the lives of all the retainers and subjects holed up in the castle would be spared.
Becoming the wife of an enemy general meant a complete betrayal of the Oda family. However, Otsuya-no-kata thought that "if I swallow my pride and become the wife of an enemy general, I can prevent any of my beloved subjects and subordinates from dying," and she accepted these harsh conditions, surrendered the castle, and married Akiyama Nobutomo.
4. The Cruel Ending That Awaited Her
However, the gods of the Warring States were cruel.
Afterward, when the Takeda family suffered a crushing defeat at the Battle of Nagashino, the Oda army (Nobunaga's son, Nobutada), emboldened by their victory, besieged Iwamura Castle. Next, Akiyama Nobutomo and Otsuya-no-kata held out in the castle for five months, but reaching their limit, they surrendered, asking for their lives to be spared in exchange for the lives of their soldiers.
Nobunaga initially accepted their surrender, but he never forgave Akiyama Nobutomo, who had left the castle, or his aunt (Otsuya-no-kata), who had sided with the Takeda despite being family.
Breaking his promise, Nobunaga had the two taken to the banks of the Nagara River and executed by "upside-down crucifixion," one of the most brutal execution methods of the Sengoku period, and they lost their lives.
[Summary]
While history textbooks sometimes portray her as "the woman who betrayed Oda," the reason she is still beautifully remembered and loved in Iwamura, even having a sake brand named after her, is because she was a kind castle lord who tried to save the lives of the people of Iwamura, even at the cost of her own life. When you walk through the castle town with that background in mind, the scenery of those old houses takes on a different kind of depth.
I loved the Iwamura castle town so much that I went there four weeks in a row, even though it's a 90-minute drive from my home.
My recommendations are:
① The Iwamura Tomita Koshihikari rice from Yamamaruya Shoten is exquisite.
② Matsuura-ken has both a main store and a branch, and the taste is different at each. Both are delicious.
③ The locals are friendly. If you look around curiously, they'll tell you stories and explain the buildings.
④ The Katsukawa family residence is a filming location for the movie "Galaxy Express 999," starring Koji Yakusho. Watching the movie at home is a moving experience all over again.
⑤ The library in the first parking lot and the exhibits of Sato Issai, a teacher I greatly admire, are very stylish and a great space. You can also buy coffee from a vending machine.
⑥ The view from Iwamura Castle, as seen by Oda Nobunaga and Akechi Mitsuhide, is superb. It makes you feel like you've conquered the world…
⑦ The old townscape without telephone poles feels somehow nostalgic. It gives you the feeling of returning to your hometown.
Gifu Prefecture has post towns along the Nakasendo route and castle towns, but this is my favorite.
About once a year, I enjoy strolling through the castle town at the same time as the Iwamura Brewery Opening Ceremony. This place still retains the atmosphere of an old town, and I discover something new every time I walk. Recently, due to deterioration, buildings have been demolished and rebuilt, and the atmosphere can suddenly change. I think it is quite difficult to maintain the landscape, but I hope it will remain in its current form.
