Ishikawa

Ishikawa is a prefecture running up the Sea of Japan coast of central Honshu, from snow-fed mountains to the long finger of the Noto Peninsula. Its capital, Kanazawa, escaped wartime bombing and preserves one of the country's richest concentrations of Edo-period districts and traditional crafts.

Kenroku-en ranks among Japan's finest landscape gardens, beside a castle park and the Nagamachi samurai and Higashi Chaya teahouse quarters. The city still produces nearly all of Japan's gold leaf, which turns up on crafts and even on ice cream. South of the city, the Kaga onsen towns pair baths with Kutani porcelain.

Winter is snow crab season, when Omicho Market fills with the catch and restaurants post their best menus of the year. The Hokuriku Shinkansen links Kanazawa directly with Tokyo, and two nights covers the city well; add a third for the Kaga spas. Snow-dusted Kenroku-en is a celebrated sight.