Yamakoshi, nestled in the mountains about 30 minutes by car from JR Nagaoka Station, is a region blessed with deep snow in winter and beautiful terraced rice paddies planted in spring. It boasts a long history, with bullfighting dating back to the Edo period. Bullfighting is even mentioned in Takizawa Bakin's Edo-period novel, "Nansō Satomi Hakkenden," indicating that the culture of "bull horn fighting" has been passed down through generations and remains a major event for the local community. The sight of massive, muscular bulls clashing with their horns is incredibly powerful, and the way the bull handlers, known as "seko," shout "Yoshita!" as they literally become one with the bull is magnificent.
A key characteristic is that, in principle, the matches end in a draw, a consideration to prevent injury to the bulls, which are considered part of the family. A rope is attached to the hind legs and pulled by the seko to signal the end of the fight. This is done amidst the thrashing of the massive bulls, adding to the spectacle and showcasing the skill of the handlers.
The cattle, once a valuable source of labor, are treated like family, and this major event in Yamakoshi offers a glimpse into the spirit of mutual support that is passed down in this remote, snow-covered mountain region.
The date of the bullfighting event changes each year, but it is held on a fixed date throughout the year. On event days, a temporary shuttle bus runs from Nagaoka Station, so it is possible to get there by train.
Yamakoshi is a mountainous region located about a 30-minute drive from JR Nagaoka Station. It is known for its deep snow in winter and the beautiful scenery of rice planting in the terraced fields in spring. The area has a long history, with bullfighting traditions dating back to the Edo period. There are even references to bullfighting in "Nanso Satomi Hakkenden," a novel written by Takizawa Bakin during the Edo period. The culture of "bull goring" has been passed down through the generations, and even today, it remains a major event that brings the entire community together. The sight of massive, muscular bulls locking horns and clashing is incredibly powerful, and the spectacle of the "seshi"—the bull handlers—shouting "Yoshita!!" as man and bull literally become one is truly magnificent.
The most distinctive feature is that matches end in a draw, a practice rooted in the desire to protect the bulls—which are treated like family—from injury. A rope is attached to the bull’s hind legs, and the seishi pull it to signal the end of the match. However, since this is done while the massive bull is thrashing about, it’s a highlight in itself, showcasing remarkable skill.
The oxen, once valuable workers, are treated with the same care as family members. In this major event that brings the entire Yamakoshi region together, you can catch a glimpse of the spirit of mutual aid that has been passed down in this deep, snow-covered mountainous area.
The dates for the ox-butting festival change each year, but the schedule is set for the entire year. On the day of the event, temporary shuttle buses run from Nagaoka Station, so it is possible to get there by train.
Ojiya Bullfighting - August 8, 2025
This is another place I've always wanted to visit. Even though I knew it wasn't the day of the event, I was curious to see what kind of place it was, so I decided to visit.
Although it's a "bullfight," the style isn't to determine the winner, but rather to pit bulls against each other in a show of strength, which I found to be very Japanese.
Actually visiting, the venue is located in a mountain village, and it's clear to see that this tradition has been going on here since ancient times. It was a time when I was strangely immersed in the atmosphere of the land.
Heading toward the parking lot, I found a large rock called "Mimamori Rock." The information board read, "It was broken by the earthquake." At first, I thought it was the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, but it was actually the Chuetsu Earthquake of 2004.
While memories inevitably fade, my parents' home is in Hokushin, Nagano Prefecture, and I suddenly remembered the terrible feeling I felt at the time when a major earthquake hit Niigata. It's strange how, by standing on a certain land, events that I had almost forgotten suddenly feel closer to me...
The dates are set, so we recommend checking in advance.
This bullring apparently holds more events per year than the other Ojiya bullring.
Although it's on top of a mountain, there's apparently parking for 450 cars.
Tickets are available for purchase on the day.
The fight starts at 1 PM, but tickets are available for purchase from 10 AM.
The shuttle bus arrives around 12 PM, so it's best to arrive before then to secure a seat.
There are many covered seats, so it's safe.
The fight starts from 1 PM to 3 PM.
There are 12 bouts.
The winner isn't decided until the end, so wait for the right time. The bull handlers, known as teseshiko, stop the bulls with their bare hands.
They thrust their fingers into the bull's nose and pull it away with miraculous skill.
Some bulls want to fight more and thrash about, but the many teseshiko quickly tie ropes around their legs and pull them back to stop them.
This is quite a sight to behold.
The large bulls weigh about one ton, making for a very impressive performance.
The commentator's eloquence was also light-hearted, and watching this truly felt like a traditional part of the culture.
I was impressed by the skill of controlling the bulls so that they could fight without injury, while still being able to do their best.
Tickets were 2,500 yen.
2026年5月に訪問しました。闘牛開催日は人で賑わうのですが、それ以外の日だと全く人がいません。皆無です。自販機などもありません。
I went for the first time on Sunday, September 14, 2025. The event started at 1:00 PM, and I arrived around 11:30 AM. I enjoyed the specialty stewed beef tendon and rice balls. It was drizzling, but the live music from the Incanyans made for a very lively atmosphere. I even gave some Incanyans a tip. I'm so grateful that they came all the way to Japan from Peru, and I wish them all the best. Tickets cost 2,500 yen in cash. They also sold various items, including Yamakoshi Village curry and Kagura Nanban miso. I did some shopping to support the reconstruction of Yamakoshi Village. It's amazing how everyone supports and preserves the traditions of bull horn pounding. I'd love to go again next year.
