Moto-Hakone (元箱根)

Moto-Hakone is a serene lakeside area sitting on the southern shore of Lake Ashi, in the quieter and more historically rich corner of the Hakone region. It is one of the most scenic and culturally layered destinations in the entire area, offering a very different atmosphere from the busier resort towns further up the valley.

The area sits at the foot of Mount Hakone and looks directly across the lake toward Mount Fuji on clear days. The combination of still water, forested mountains, and the distant volcanic cone of Fuji makes Moto-Hakone one of the most photographed landscapes in the entire Kanto region.

The most iconic sight in Moto-Hakone is the torii gate of Hakone Shrine, which stands directly in the waters of Lake Ashi. The red gate rising from the lake surface, framed by cedar trees and mountain scenery, is one of the defining images of Hakone and among the most recognized shrine photographs in Japan.

Hakone Shrine itself sits within a dense forest of towering cryptomeria cedars, a short walk from the lakeside gate. Founded in 757 AD, the shrine has been a place of worship and pilgrimage for well over 1,200 years. It was particularly venerated by samurai and warriors seeking divine favor, and Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of Japan's first shogunate, is among its most famous historical devotees.

The shrine complex includes the striking Peace Torii gate on the lakefront, the main honden (main hall) set deep within the cedar grove, and the Mototsu-miya inner sanctuary. The forested approach to the main hall is atmospheric in all seasons but particularly beautiful when morning mist drifts through the ancient trees.

Running along the edge of Moto-Hakone is a well-preserved section of the historic Tokaido Road, the ancient highway that once connected Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period. The famous Cryptomeria Avenue along this stretch, a long corridor of towering cedar trees planted in 1618, remains largely intact and is one of the most evocative historical walking paths in Japan.

The Hakone Sekisho (Hakone Checkpoint) is a reconstructed version of the original Edo-period barrier gate that once controlled the movement of people and goods along the Tokaido Road. Located near the lakeside, it now operates as a museum with exhibits explaining the strict travel regulations of feudal Japan. The original site was one of the most important checkpoints in the entire country.

Lake Ashi itself, known locally as Ashinoko, was formed by a volcanic eruption approximately 3,000 years ago. The lake spans about 7 kilometers in length and sits at an elevation of 723 meters, with the surrounding caldera walls creating a dramatic natural amphitheater around the water.

Sightseeing boats, styled as pirate ships, operate regular services across the lake between Moto-Hakone, Hakone-machi, and Togendai to the north. The boat crossing offers unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains and, on clear days, spectacular sightlines toward Mount Fuji.

The area around Moto-Hakone is quieter and less commercialized than Hakone-Yumoto or Gora, with a small collection of traditional restaurants, souvenir shops, and lakeside cafes. Several high-quality ryokan in the vicinity offer lake-facing rooms and private onsen facilities.

Moto-Hakone is accessible by highway bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station and Odawara Station, with journey times of approximately 35 and 55 minutes, respectively. It is also reachable via the sightseeing boat from Togendai, which connects to the Hakone Ropeway and the broader mountain sightseeing circuit.