
The philosopher it is named after walked this canal path to work every day for years, thinking. Nishida Kitaro taught at Kyoto University in the early 20th century and built the first genuinely original school of Japanese philosophy, and the locals noticed him on the towpath often enough that the route took his habit as its name.
The Philosopher's Path in Kyoto is a 2 km stone walkway along the Lake Biwa Canal in the northern Higashiyama hills, running between Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji. It takes about 30 minutes to walk, costs nothing, and passes roughly a dozen temples and shrines, several of which charge separately.

The canal it follows was built in the 1890s to carry water from Lake Biwa over the mountains into Kyoto, an engineering project that also gave the city its first hydroelectric power and a streetcar system.
The towpath alongside it became a walking route, was named Tetsugaku no Michi after Nishida, and was paved and planted with several hundred cherry trees, donated by the painter Kanso Hashimoto in 1921.
The path itself is free and open at all hours, with no gates, and the city's own listing marks the route. It runs roughly north to south with the canal on one side and residential streets on the other.
We'll build a costed, pre-planned Japan itinerary you can customise to your taste.
The path is one of the best-known blossom walks in Japan, with the canal lined by around 400 trees whose branches meet overhead in places. Petals collect on the water surface, which is the image everyone comes for.
Blossoms usually open in Kyoto in the last days of March and peak in the first week of April, though the national blossom forecast is worth checking a week out.
Go before 8:00 or after 18:00 in blossom season. Between 10:00 and 16:00 the path becomes a slow-moving single file, and the whole point of it disappears. Our guides to Japan's quieter blossom gardens and planning a blossom trip cover the alternatives when this one is full.
Late November brings maples, and the crowd is a fraction of the spring one. The color here peaks slightly later than the hills above it, usually in the last third of the month.
Summer is green, humid and quiet, with fireflies on the canal in June at dusk. Winter is the emptiest and arguably the best for its original purpose, with bare branches, occasional snow and almost nobody on it.
The path has no lighting for most of its length, so evening walks are dark outside the illumination seasons.

The northern end. Built in 1482 as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa and never actually silvered, the Silver Pavilion is the more restrained sibling of the Golden Pavilion, and for most visitors the better one.
Admission is ¥1,000 for adults and ¥500 for school students, open 8:30 to 17:00 from March through November and 9:00 to 16:30 in winter. The temple's own pages list closures. The sand garden includes a cone called the Moon Viewing Platform, raked into shape daily.

A short detour uphill, and the quietest place on the walk. A thatched gate opens onto two rectangular sand mounds that the monks re-rake with a seasonal pattern, and the grounds are free. Only the interior halls charge, and only during two short opening seasons in spring and fall. The background to Honen-in explains its place in Pure Land Buddhism.
If you visit one thing on this path besides the temples at either end, make it this.

A small temple with a tragic 13th-century story behind it, open only on selected weekends in spring and fall. The temple's calendar publishes the dates, and the azaleas in late April are the reason to time a visit to them.

A tiny shrine in the trees with stone mice instead of the usual foxes or lion-dogs, referencing a legend in which a mouse saved the deity Okuninushi from a fire. It is free, takes five minutes, and almost everyone walks past the turning.

Near the southern end, Eikan-do is the best maple temple in Kyoto and knows it. Admission is ¥1,000 normally, rising to ¥1,500 during the fall color season, with a separate ¥1,000 evening illumination ticket in the second half of November.
Its famous statue of Amida looking back over his shoulder is unlike any other in Japan. The temple's site posts the illumination dates each year.

The southern end is one of the most important Zen temples in Japan. The grounds are free to walk, which include the enormous Sanmon gate and the red brick aqueduct of the Lake Biwa Canal running straight through the complex.
The Hojo rock garden and the climb up the Sanmon each cost ¥600, and Nanzen-ji's own site lists the sub-temples. The garden is a good example of the Japanese dry landscape style, and the temple complex deserves an hour on its own.

The Lake Biwa Canal is the reason the path exists, and the Keage Incline at the southern end, a disused railway slope once used to haul boats between canal levels, is worth the ten-minute detour.
Small tea houses, coffee shops, and craft studios line the middle section, several in converted houses with a few seats and a garden. A private teahouse tea ceremony is the formal version if you want to sit down properly.
Cat-themed shops, pottery studios, and small galleries fill the gaps. Prices are higher than in central Kyoto, which is due to the location.
From Kyoto Station, take bus 5, 17 or 100 to Ginkakuji-michi, which takes 35 to 40 minutes and costs ¥230, then walk five minutes uphill. That puts you at the northern end.
To start from the south instead, take the Tozai subway line to Keage, which puts you five minutes from Nanzen-ji.
Walking north to south, from Ginkaku-ji down to Nanzen-ji, is the better direction, since you finish beside a subway station rather than waiting for a bus.
The walk itself takes 30 minutes at an even pace. Nobody does it in 30 minutes.
With Ginkaku-ji, one or two temples along the way, and Nanzen-ji at the end, allow three to four hours. With coffee and a proper look at Eikan-do in fall, allow most of a day.
The surface is flat, paved, and fine for all abilities, though the side turnings to Honen-in and Anraku-ji involve steps.
The path: free
Ginkaku-ji: ¥1,000 for adults
Eikan-do: ¥1,000, or ¥1,500 in fall color season
Nanzen-ji grounds: free, with ¥600 each for the Hojo garden and the Sanmon gate
Honen-in and Otoyo-jinja: free
A full day walking the path and entering the three main temples costs about ¥2,500 per person.
Yes, with a caveat about timing. At 7:00 on a spring morning or on a weekday in November, it is one of the best walks in Japan. At noon on a Saturday in early April it is a queue.
It is also the most efficient way to see northern Higashiyama, since it strings together two major temples and several minor ones in a straight line with no navigation required.
If gardens are the reason you are in Kyoto at all, this walk and the temples along it cover several styles in an afternoon, and our guide to Japanese gardens and meditation retreats explains what you are looking at.




